Georgia Seitz Ribbonwinners
Tatting Patterns & Shuttles
1227 CR 1760 E
Greenup Illinois USA

Mary Maynard's Small Doily in
Tatting AND Hairpin Lace Totally Tatted

For this doily, I used #40 thread. It is some very old Clark thread, made in Great Britain. Hairpin lace requires a picot gauge. I used a half inch one, wrapping the thread around it. So IF the picot were to be stretched out, the picot would be one inch in width. This is important as the center has to lay flat and the picots work for this size picot and this size thread.

2 shuttles wound CTM
R ring
P picot (in this pattern use the gauge) How to use a picot gauge.
SR split ring
+ join (to - )
JP picot just large enough to join
RW reverse work
DNRW do NOT reverse work
Close ALL rings firmly & snug up all chains

When doing a project with hairpin lace, the hairpin lace must be done first. So begin all tatted hairpin style lace strip.

R: 2 p 2 JP 2 p 2
SR: 2 p 2/2 p 2 Repeat SR X 38
There will be a total of 39 rings.

Leave the final ring until 9 of the inner chains have been worked. Having the hairpin lace rings loose makes joining the picots easier.


R: 3 (JP 3) X 9 DNRW
SR: 1/1 RW

VIP NOTE: It is most important that each picot loop be picked up in the same manner each time a join is made.
CH: 5 + (to first 4 picots of hairpin lace) 5 RW
R: 1 + (to next P of center R) 1 RW
Repeat CH & R around until you have 9 rings joined to the center loops of the hairpin lace.

Now we will complete the hairpin lace. Cut the thread of shuttle 2 leaving an end of 2 - 3 inches. Encapsulate this end in the final ring, leaving a small loop like in SCMR. This leaves only one end to hide. Once the ring is closed, I put a slip knot near the end of the shuttle 2 thread, so I can identify it correctly when finishing.

Work the final ring of the hairpin lace:
R: 2 p 2 + (to small P of first R) 2 p 2
Before closing the ring, pass shuttle one through the loop of shuttle 2 end.
Close ring # 40 and work the final chain and join the last four loops to the center. Tie, cut and hide the ends.
Remember do NOT trim the ends once you have hidden them. That must ALWAYS be left for the final task AFTER blocking.
The outer rounds will be given in the lesson for the 27 of April. This gives everyone time to work the hairpin lace
Many thanks to Mary Maynard for sharing her work with us.

Second installment of Small Doily in
Tatting AND Hairpin Lace Totally Tatted

2 shuttles CTM
Round 2:
R: 4 DS, + (to outer P of hairpin center) 4 DS, JP, 4 DS, JP, 4 DS DNRW
* SR: 4 DS, JP, 4 DS/4 DS + (to next P of hairpin center) 4 DS
Repeat from * around until all but one of the outer P are joined.
To work the final R, first cut the thread of shuttle 2 about 3. Encapsulate the end as the 40th R is worked.
R: 4 DS, JP, 4 DS + (to 1st JP of 1st R of this round) 4 DS + (to last P of center) 4 DS
Finish off last end.

This piece of tatting should now lay flat and be quite firm. Since this far we have worked only rings, the texture of the piece should be on the front or public side of the tatting. As we go to the next round, you must decide for yourself about frontside/backside tatting and what YOU want to do about it. I did work this piece following most of the rules for having all the knots facing one direction. For this piece, I think it looks and makes a much more sophisticated final product. However, you are the creator of this pattern and you make up your own mind.

Round 3
R 1: 3, JP, 9, JP, 9, JP, 3 DNRW
R 2: 2 + (to last P of R 1) 3, JP, 5 RW
CH: 8 + (to JP of SR of Round 2) 8 RW
R 3: 5 + (to P of R 2) 8, JP, 8, JP, 5 RW
Repeat CH
R 4: 5 + (to last P of R 3) 3, JP, 2 DNRW
Repeat from R1 (but join next R 1 to P of R 4) around until the first cloverleaf is reached.
Cut ball thread and encapsulate it in the final R 4.

Third installment of Small Doily in
Tatting AND Hairpin Lace Totally Tatted

2 shuttles CTM
Outer Round:

This round is mostly split rings. The only ring NOT a split ring is the small ring which joins to the work already done. Because of the split rings, the work for this ring progresses in a counter-clockwise direction. The tatting is not reversed at any time for working this round.

R 1: 7 DS, JP, 7 DS
R 2: 5 DS + (to P of large R in cloverleaf) 5 DS
R 3: 7 DS/7 DS
R 4: 6 DS/8 DS
R 5: 6 DS/9 DS
R 6: 6 DS/8 DS
R 7: Repeat R 3
R 8: Repeat R 2, join in the next large ring of the next cloverleaf

Repeat from R 3 around until all the large rings of the cloverleaves are joined and until there is one repeat of R 6 to do. Again here, cut the thread from shuttle 2, encapsulate it as you work the final ring joining it to the JP of R 1.

Final Round:

Extension of the chain. It is important for this round that the chains be snugged up very firmly BEFORE closing that small ring. It can be retro tatted but it is very challenging. Also, while working this round, it is easier to keep the work already done more to the front towards you. There is a special reason for this which you will understand when you work the first chain. This is where the barest hint of Celtic tatting shows up.

Wind one shuttle CTM.

R 1: 1 DS + (to JP of lone large ring of Round 2) 1 DS RW
CH: 13 - bring the shuttle forward through the space created by the outer split rings and back to the back of the work through the next space - 13 RW
Repeat from R 1 around. Join last CH at base of first R 1. Tie & cut. Hide or bury ends as desired.
Congratulations to Cynthia, Wally and Elizabeth who correctly indentified the "design variation."
Picot gauges are in stock.

Any questions? You are welcome to email me:
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