Georgia Seitz - Ribbonwinners
Tatting Patterns & Shuttles
1227 CR 1760 E
Greenup IL 62428-3016
AKTATTER@aol.com - www.georgiaseitz.com

Needlecraft 1921 Month?
Tatted Centerpiece by Roxie York
Suggested Solutions


"A Very Pretty Tatted Centerpiece" by Roxie York.




Directions for doily center using a substitute tatted center by Sunela Thomas, sunela@yahoo.com

Abbreviations: R – ring C – Chain
SR – Split Ring SC – Split Chain

Round 1: R1: 10 – 5 – 5
SR2 – SR8: 5 – 5 / 10
SR9: 5 / 10 + (join to the 1st picot of R1) 5 (this helps to climb out to round 2)

I did the first ring using SH1 hiding the end. Before closing the first ring put in the thread from SH2 and close the ring. SH1 was used for 1st part of SR and SH2 for the 2nd part.

Round 2: [ Using SH2 – C 5
Using SH1 – R 4 – 4 – 4 ] * 8
Using SH2 – C 5; SC 5 (this helps climb out to round 3)
SR 4 – 4 / 4 – 4

Round 3: SR 4 – 4 – 4 / 4
[ SR 4 – 4 / 8
SR 4 – 4 /8
SR 4 – 4 / 4 + (join to the second picot of the ring in round 2) 4 ] * 8
SR 4 / 8 + (join to the 2nd picot of the 1st SR of this round) 4 (this helps to climb out to the next round if needed)

Directions for doily center using a linen round as shown in the original by Marie d.l.C., icollas@free.fr

R 3 - 4 - 4 - 3
C 9
R 3 + 4 - 4 - 3
C 9
R 3 + 4 - 4 - 3
C 8 - 8
Repeat 8 times to have 9 circles.



Many thanks to Sunela and Marie for revising this antique pattern.

Square motif, Round 3, 9 total, revised by Stephanie Wilson, trompeter914@gmail.com
[Pattern says to use size 10 ecru thread (or size 5 if you tat a bit tighter) for this round.]


R = ring
p = picot
- = normal size picot
– = large (at least 1/4 inch) picot
Ch = chain
+ = join
DNRW = Do not reverse work
SLT = Shoe lace trick
Reverse work after each ring and chain unless otherwise noted.

1. R1: 4 - 4 – 4 - 4
2 Ch1 (“long” chain): 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 (8 p total)
3. *R2: 4 - 4 + (to long p of R1) 4 - 4
4. Ch2: 2 - 2 - 2 + (to 3rd p of free chain of round medallion) 2 - 2 - 2 + (to 2nd p of 1st free ch of next medallion) 2 - 2 - 2
R3: repeat R2 (joining into long p of R1)
Ch: repeat Ch1
R4: repeat R2 (joining into long p of R1) SLT DNRW
[so far you have 4 rings, all joined into the same p and 3 chains]
Ch: 4 - 4 [NOTE: if doing front/back tatting, you are on the ‘front’ of the work]
R: 4 + (to next-to-last p of next-to-last ch) 4 - 4 - 4 [‘back’ side of work] [possible mistake here in original pattern?]
Ch: 4 - 4 SLT DNRW [‘front’ side of work]
R: repeat R1
Ch: 2 - 2 + (to last p on next-to-last R) 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 - 2

Repeat from * until you have 4 corners and 4 sides made. (Chain after R2 will be the same as Ch1 on the last three corners of the square.) Fourth side will end with the chain in line 10. No need to do SLT after the last chain.

On 4th side of square, remember to join the last p of last “single” ring to 2nd p of 1st chain.

The rest of the medallions are made the same way, but each subsequent medallion is joined to the preceding one on the corner (2nd “long chain” - the chain made after the 2nd ring in the 2nd of the 4-ring groups).

Joining chain is as follows:
Ch: 2 - 2 - 2 - 2 + (to corresponding p of corresponding corner of previous square) 2 + (to corresponding p of corresponding corner of previous square) 2 - 2 - 2 - 2

The LAST square should be joined both to the corresponding corner of the “previous” square and that of the first square.



Parts 4 and 6 rewritten with diagrams by Patty D, pattyd@netwiz.net.


Any questions? You are welcome to email me: AKTATTER@aol.com
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