Ribbonwinners Tatting Patterns & Shuttles by
11460 Via Appia
Anchorage Alaska 99515-2905 USA
Recently I received this note from Joy. What a delightful surprise it was and what a marvelous idea. She is reinforcing the lessons and techniques learned in class in a practical and beautiful manner. Congratulations, Joy! Great Work!
I make a bracelet from each class assignment and am getting so excited about my collection that I had to share this one with someone - decide to send it to you : ) Actually, they aren't all bracelets. The split ring point lesson is a snowflake that's too big for a bracelet - but I may rework it in a smaller thread and stagger 3 flakes in the center of a band.
This bracelet was created by first making a padded base. The base is one strand of button thread folded over 6 times. The string was threaded through the clasp each time I folded it. The "end" of the 2nd shuttle thread was added to the padding, making the initial core 7 threads thick. A hemostat, clamped under the clasp, kept the threads in line while I did the pearl tatting.
The base is 7 inches long. The first and last inch are made by alternating each ds. The center alternates every 3 ds with a picot the length of 6 ds.
The flower was made next and was joined slightly off center by attaching every fourth ring to a picot on the base. The ends were left about 5 inches long so they could be used to pad the lower portion of the stem.
For the top of the stem, I started ctm with the clover shape joining it to the base. I chained down to the flower, secured the chain with a locked join, crossed the back of the flower with another chain and secured it again. This is where I added the end threads from the flower to the core, holding them with a hemostat. The next 2 clovers are attached to the base but the chains are left loose. I let the chain twine around the back of the stem as I worked my way down. When I came to the last inch of the base, I joined the stem to a picot, added 4 more ds and joined again. I finished the end by making a small ring to hide all the ends. After the first 3 ds, I snipped an end and continued to snip a thread after each 2 ds, closing the ring when all the threads were covered.
One of the neat things about a padded core is that'll take and hold a shape! I can twist it any ol' which way and it stays : )
Any questions? Email Joyi direct: S Joy