The Online Tatting Class!

sponsored by PINKPIG and Georgia Seitz

Class 2: Padded Tatting - Monday, January 31, 2000

There are several forms of padded tatting. The simplest method of all is to use a very large or heavy thread for the shuttle thread and a lighter finer thread for the outside. With just these two threads a thick tatted chain is easy to accomplish. The other methods of padded tatting require multiple threads and it is necessary to rotate the work towards and away from you as you alternate the use of the two threads which are wrapped as for a chain spaced a little apart on the working hand. If either of these two threads is on a shuttle, rings can also be thrown off the padded chain as it is tatted. The shuttle thread carries multiple threads and must be kept taut. The double stitches are made first with one ball thread and then the work rotates toward you while the double stitch is made with the second ball thread. The work then rotates away from you back to the normal position and the alternating double stitches continue.
As Phyllis, Elgiva and Angeline would say, "This is very fiddly work." Let us consider the padded tatting which is easiest to create as shown in this antique pattern from Needlecraft Mag 1929 page 10. Notice here that the upper left shows the inner core of several threads around which a finer cord is wrapped. The traditional method to do this was to load shuttle with multiple threads, however, this is no longer necessary if you "wrap" the DS onto the padding in the manner of a split ring. The example uses a padding of 6 strands of perle coton. You can use more or less or any thread or cord of any size. It is recommended that you match the color to the tatting thread as closely as possible.If using the split ring method, the picots then will form on the right hand side of the padding so you may need to adjust the order of the HS in order to achieve the all right side up look. I would make the shuttle thread's tail part of the padding. I would also double three strands to make the six needed for padding. I would place a space holder at the fold to create an inward facing picot so that the inner segment can be turned back on itself like a self-closing mock ring as it is coiled. CH (wrap) 4 - 4 - 4 - 4 - 4 compress chain and fold back to join to make the self-closing mock ring. Continue wrapping DS and join to the picots as you encounter them and continue to coil the center. As the rose grows switch to 2 or 3 DS between picots to increase the fluffy look. Make petals as indicated. When finished you can fill the inside of the outer row of petals if desired. Shown in the completed rose is a filling of one shuttle work. Shuttle join to a free picot on the inside of the petal leave short length of thread and make a tiny ring 1-1 close leave space of thread shuttle to next picot on inner chain of petal and repeat turning as need and ending by attaching to the outer chain on the back side of the work. Or use any filling, even a needleweaving type if desired For the leaves which radiate out from the rose the tips at both ends are trefoils R 3 - 3 - 3 - 3 joining where needed rings following trefoil at both ends are R 4 - 4 - 4 - 4 joining where needed and the larger rings on both sides in the center are: R 5 - 5 - 5 - 5 joining where needed. Although the outlining outer edge appears to have been done in two passes, it is not necessary. Instructions say to use a "medium ring " on the inside and a "larger ring" on the outside. I would suggest : R 3 + 3 - 3 - 3 and outer edge R 4 + 4 - 4 - 4 to complement the size of the leaves. Attach to the rose and then pickup the picots of the center trefoil rings as you go around.
Good luck , Georgia

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