SCMRs can be avoided: use the Shoelace Trick before and after the SCMR, that will put the threads in the proper position for you to use a regular ring instead.

I wasn’t too consistent using “RW” as in the instructions, but I DID work out which side was front and which was back. If you’re doing frontside/backside tatting and/or if the ball thread needs to swap places for the next chain, use whatever method you prefer to make the swap. Be aware, though, that different methods MAY produce results that differ slightly from the example, so whatever method you decide to use, be consistent.

I didn’t usually specify whether a join was a conventional join or a lock join. Use whichever join makes the most sense in that spot. Generally the chain-to-chain joins are done with the shuttle thread, but use your judgement in each spot.

Picot size isn’t always specified. Most picots are VSP but check the photo and decide what you want in sections that are NOT block-tatted. Since this edging “wants” to curve (to fit a round center), for a straighter edge (for my curtains) I would add a DS or two to each chain on the “straight” portion of the motif to “encourage” it to lie straighter. Please be on the lookout for errors in typing or otherwise.

SIDE 1: Row 1: The edging begins with a stater picot. Use your favorite method of doing this. I used a spaceholder (large paper clip) at the beginning of the chain. [F] (= front of work) CH: vsp 9 — 9 Change directions using your favorite way. I did SLT, 2HS (second half stitch) then started the next row. This method was used in the basketweave heart pattern by Martha Ess and I found it very easy to do, plus it allows me to work off the ball thread for all the chains.

NOTE: The SCMR is easy to handle if you use Anitra Stone’s method of closing a SCMR (see Jane Eborall’s “techniques” section of her pattern list online.)