Georgia Seitz - Ribbonwinners
Tatting Patterns & Shuttles
1227 CR 1760 E
Greenup IL 62428-3016
AKTATTER@aol.com - www.georgiaseitz.com




Hanging the Cluny Tips from Ruth Perry

Since one thread must be pulled through the cluny leaf on the floss threader, it must not be attached to the ball of thread or a shuttle to do so.

Two shuttles:

The first shuttle is wound so that it is full and the remainder of the thread (2nd shuttle or ball thread) MUST either be wound CTM on a shuttle with a bobbin that is easy to wind and unwind to do the cluny, or just long enough to be easy to use, in needle tatting.

Shuttle and ball thread:

To tat something with clunys and hanging clunys, I wind my shuttle then tat with shuttle and ball CTM until the first cluny then cut the thread from the ball leaving about two to three yards of thread to work with, or enough to wind a second shuttle (on a bobbin). The thread can be wound on a piece of cardboard, or a plastic thread holder and used as the ball thread. This allows you to tat continuously for some distance before needing to add more thread. I use Wilma Walker's method to add thread to the piece when I run out of thread, and it does not require any working in the thread ends so this is not a problem.

Wilma Walker's method of adding thread:


When one thread end is only about 6 - 8 inches long pick a place in your design that has at least 3DS together. You will tat two DS with both the new and old threads, and count this as three DS.

To add thread in a ring element, begin the next ring by wrapping the new thread around your hand to make the core of the ring, then hold the previous tatting in the pinch as you would normally and lay the old thread parallel to the core of the ring that goes around the hand, but anchor it by either wrapping around your little finger similar to tatting a chain, or leave it attached to previous shuttle to weight it.

Tat two DS counting them as three. These two stitches should be fairly tight tatting. It will have the same length as three normal DS. I can prove this mathematically, or you can just take my word for it. I know that a lot of tatters are not in love with math the way that I am.

Note: I tat a few of the stitches a bit looser just before adding thread, and just after adding the thread while tightening the 2DS fairly tight, so there doesn't appear to be a difference in the thickness of the tatting where the thread was added.

Then continue tatting with just the new thread. Simply leave the old thread end hanging until you have tatted some distance from where the thread was added. Later, cut the threads close to the work.

To add thread to a chain element just lay the new thread parallel to the old thread and wrap both around your little finger in tatting with 1 shuttle and ball thread, or let hang on the old 2nd shuttle as in adding thread to a ring element. Tat the two DS counted as three the same as above.

It is helpful to have an extra ball of the thread with which you are tatting, and an extra shuttle, but then who doesn't need a good reason to buy a little more thread, or have one more shuttle?

When tatting and adding thread this way the new and old thread ends are firmly tatted into two tight double stitches do not ever come undone. I have washed and worn items done this way and have never had an end come loose.

The addition of the new thread is virtually impossible to detect when the piece is finished.

You can examine the photo of the purple variegated collar in the book Celtic Tatting Knots and Patterns, and try to see where I added new thread. I'll even let you examine it with a magnifying glass when I am at a tat day and have it with me to display. You may be able to find a thread added with the magnifying glass if you examine it closely and get lucky! But probably not without the magnifying glass.

For more info contact: Ruth Perry.

Any questions? You are welcome to email me: AKTATTER@aol.com
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