1227 CR 1760 E
Greenup Illinois USA
Mary Maynard(firstname.lastname@example.org) writes:
There are times when I start ‘doodling’ that I have no idea how good and wonderful the finished design will be. This is one of those ‘doodles'. Had I ever thought it would work out to be so well balanced and complete, I would have used nicer buttons. So choose the buttons with care. Materials# 30 thread (red for Valentine’s Day, 3 buttons that are the same, 3/4” may be 2 or 4 hole, 120 # 11 beads (I used a very dark red), 1 shuttle & ball wound CTM (will probably only use the one shuttle of thread.)
Please note before starting that all rings and chains need to be pulled up firmly. I think this piece would make a wonderful medallion for a necklace. And please consider this about the buttons. I have learned that I personally prefer to join to a button with a ring having the back side of the button facing me. I like the way the tatting looks when joined this way. Also, when I am working a design where chains join, then I like to have the right side of the button facing me when I work the join. Try and see what you prefer. Just be consistent and make sure the buttons are facing the same way.
Repeat 16 times - join 4 times to first buttonhole, then 8 times to 2nd buttonhole, 4 times to first hole. If using a 4 hole button join 2, then 4, 4, 4, and 2. This makes the finished rings and chains more even. Tie, cut (leave at least 2” ends. n.b. I never cut ends even if I have to bury them until the final step of the project, sometimes even after blocking) and finish off.
Work second button the same. I would pull about 3 yards of thread from shuttle so as to do the CTM method to eliminate tatting over ends around the button. For the third button, tie ends and wind about 2 yards back onto shuttle, tatting over ends or tails is so much easier from the shuttle end. Ready the first two buttons.R 7 + (to hole in button #3) 2 - 7 RW
CH 3 - 3 - 3 + (to p of chain on button #1). It is important to check and decide how you want the open channel on the button to lie for the finished piece. I don’t remember planning this or thinking about it when I did the first piece, but it is an essential element of the heart these are worked so they lay in the same or opposing positions.) 3 RW
Finish as before (does not matter really what method for burying ends is used, but should be the same each time for the sake of consistency in the design. All three buttons should now be ‘hooked’ together and we are ready for the final round. Thread at least 120 beads on the thread before winding the shuttle. When you start to wind the shuttle, space & wind 32 (I generally add a couple extra just to be certain that I have enough) on the shuttle.Shuttle wound CTM and start with a lock join in the middle p of the last SS Ring. RW
Because the joins in this portion of this round are chain joins, I prefer to RW & work a very small R of 1 + 1. I like the ‘look’ it gives the finished piece. I like it better than a lock join which is often used here. However, if you choose to do this very small ring, be absolutely certain that you are joining to the correct picot as this is one ring that is almost impossible to open, there are so few stitches. (I have done it, but very carefully and with much patience —– not recommended.)After last join to center P of next 5 p R on button #1,